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Photo Samples, Central Asia
Central Asia is the closest you'd ever get to
"the lost world". Despite the fact that Central Asia has been one of the
culturally most important and most interesting parts of the continent, the
Zarist regime and, for 70 years, the Soviet leaders kept the region almost
closed to foreigners. As we all know, contact with the outside just isn't
good for true Communism.
Since independence in 1991, the
region has slowly opened up, and although the different officially
ex-Communist governments (in particular Uzbekistan and Turmenistan) still seem to be stuck in their Soviet-style
xenophobia, Central Asia is a very rewarding region indeed. I felt so during my first
visit in 2000, and coming back in 2008 didn't change my attitude - just the
number of tourist colleagues - from zero to lots. Consequently, the number
of souvenir vendors havs exploded; in most cases for the bad but in Khiva it actually suits the museum town to get some life.
As any other photo on my site, all photos are, of course © Claus
Qvist Jessen, and don't even think about using them without asking my permission. |
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The
highlight of any visit to Central Asia: The magnificent Registan of Samarkand,
Uzbekistan.The building to the left is the Ulukbekh Medressa (early 1400's, the oldest of
the three), the right one is the 200 years younger Sher Dor Medressa. The central building
is the 1660's Kari Tilla Mosque. © Claus Qvist Jessen |
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The top of
the entrance of the Sher Dor Medressa, Samarkand, Uzbekistan. Note the
rare use of animal motives, as Islam just doesn't encourage the making
of pictures of living creatures.
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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Detail from one of the two domes on the Sher Dor Medressa; Samarkand,
Uzbekistan.
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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| The final
resting place of the mighty Timur the Lame (Tamerlame) his son Shah Rokh
and his gifted grandson Ulugbek: The Guri Amir mausoleum,
Samarkand, Uzbekistan. © Claus Qvist Jessen |
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The mainly 14th and 15th Century necropolis Shah-i-Zinda (Samarkand,
Uzbekistan) used to be completely overlooked by foreign tourists and
almost exclusively used by local Muslims. To them, the major attraction
is the old mausoleum of Qasam ibn-Abbas, "the tomb of the living king".
Qasam ibn-Abbas, who lived in the 7th Century was the cousin of the
Prophet Mohammad and credited as the man who spread out Islam in Central
Asia.
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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Ranked by the beauty of the details, Shah-i-Zinda must be THE highlight
of Timurid arcitecture; Samarkand, Uzbekistan.
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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The inner face of the gigantic late 14th Century Bibi-Khanym Mosque,
Samarkand. Unfortunately, it was too grand for its own good and has
collapsed more than once, and the present day building is a result of
heavy restoration. © Claus Qvist Jessen |
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Sometimes, the distance in between past and present is quite small. This
local transport was "shot" in Samarkand. The building in the background
is the 18th Century Hazrat-Hizr Mosque..
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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All over Central Asia, bread is sold by the piece by colourful women;
Samarkand, Uzbekistan.
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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The remains of Timur's grand Ak-Saray Palace in Shakhrisabz, Uzbekistan.
Shakhrisabz was the birthplace of Amir Timur, but the palace was partly
destroyed by a 17th Century, jaloux Emir.
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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Among Central Asian newly-weds, it's a tradition to pay a visit to their
revered ancestors, here the Ak-Saray and Timur Statue in Shakrisabz. Be
there on a Saturday, and you'll see dozens of newly-married couples.
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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The 15th century Kok-Gumbaz (meaning Blue Mosque), built by Ulugbek to
honour his father, Shah-Rokh - third and youngest son of Timur. © Claus Qvist Jessen |
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Venerable elder from Shakhrisabz. Note the medals; very likely this old
gentleman has been fightling against Hitler's armies in the 40'ies.
Unfortunately, it was an almost a bigger feat to survive Stalin's purges.
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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How tombstones are made;Shakhrisabz, Uzbekistan.
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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| The front of
the mighty Mir-e-Arab Medressa in Bukhara, Uzbekistan. During Stalinist
days, this was
reportedly
the only medressa in Central Asia allowed to operate. Some of the others were used as
storage or pig farms! ©
Claus Qvist Jessen |
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Mir-e-Arab Medressa
seen from the top of the Kalon Minaret.
©
Claus Qvist Jessen |
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The entrance
of the Ulukbekh Medressa in Bukhara. From 1419, this is the oldest of all the blue-tiled medressas of the whole region.
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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The Kalon Minaret at July sunset. In October, the sun is less
cooperative; Bukhara, Uzbekistan. © Claus Qvist Jessen |
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Miniature painting, a major tourist thing in Bukhara, Uzbekistan. © Claus Qvist Jessen |
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| Have a grape
or some raisins? Happy vendors at the lively market in Bukhara, Uzbekistan. © Claus Qvist Jessen |
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| Homemade
honey is one of the local delicacies in Central Asia, here at the bazar
of Bukhara, Uzbekistan. © Claus Qvist Jessen |
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Preparing the national dish of Central Asia: Shashlik. Being a
vegetarian can't be easy; Bukhara, Uzbekistan. © Claus Qvist Jessen |
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Danish tourist (me!) trying out a traditionally Turkmen headgear made of
sheeps wool. Very warm and very silly. © Claus Qvist Jessen |
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| The Islom
Huja Mosque in Khiva, Uzbekistan. The photo dates itself from 2000;
eight years later the whole square in front was covered with souvenir
vendors. © Claus Qvist Jessen |
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The top of the 57 meter tall 1910 Islom Hoja Minaret. From the top, the
views are stunning. © Claus Qvist Jessen |
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The chubby, blue-tiled Kalta Minor in Khiva was commenced in 1851 and
would certainly have been the tallest building on Earth if it had been
completed. Unfortunately the Emir dropped dead in 1855, and the work was
stopped. © Claus Qvist Jessen |
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| Details from
the roof of the Tosh Hovli Palace in the old town (Ichon Qala) of Khiva, Uzbekistan.
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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Blue-tiled details from
the Tosh Hovli Palace; Khiva, Uzbekistan.
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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The holiest place in khiva is the Pahlavon-Mahmoud Mausoleum, and every
day loads of pilgrims (like the young, well-dressed boy to the right)
and newlyweds flock to the shrine. © Claus Qvist Jessen |
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Local bakery; Ichon Qala, Kviva, Uzbekistan. © Claus Qvist Jessen |
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From the
past: A street poster in the semi-deserted town of Moynaq (western
Uzbekistan) showing a woman posing with a freshly caught fish. These
dayys, the water is more than 40 kilometers away!
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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ship in the desert shows the evidence of the biggest planned ecological disaster in the
world: The drying-up of the Aral Sea. Since the Stalin and Khruschev days, the two rivers,
Amy Darya and Sur Darya, have been depleted of their water to such an extent that the
volume of the lake is down to less than one quarter of the original. Salinity has
increased, 20 endemic species of fish exterminated, and Moynac, once at the lakeside, is
now 40 kms away from the water! © Claus Qvist Jessen |
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Another
one bites the dust; Aral Sea, Moynaq, Uzbekistan.
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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The flambouyant Zenkov Cathedral in the Panifilov Park, central Almaty,
Kazakhstan. © Claus Qvist Jessen |
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With North Korea as a possible exceptions, the Soviets were the unofficial
world champions in making tasteless war monuments, glorifying themselves. This modest thing is
approximately 10 meters from one side to the other and mounted on a
giant concrete gateway in the Panifilov Park, Almaty, Kazakhstan. © Claus Qvist Jessen |
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A blue-tiled detail from the
13th Century Yassawa Mausoleum in Turkestan, Kazakhstan. The mausoleum
was made by Timur in early 15th Century.
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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Selling fruits at the Turkestan Railway Station, central Kazakhstan.
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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| Melon
man
at the Turkestan Railway Station, central Kazakhstan.
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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Smoky shashlik; Turkestan Railway Station, central Kazakhstan.
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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More fruit at the Turkestan Railway Station, central Kazakhstan.
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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The blessing or the curse of Central Asia: The cotton; responsible for
lots of economic growth - and an equal amount of ecological disasters,
in particular the shrinking of the Aral Sea. Cotton is a thirsty plant,
and lots of water is needed, and you have to be a Soviet leader to
ignore the consequences. Here outside Turkestan, Kazakhstan.
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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A closer look: Ripe cotton, ready to
pick; Turkestan, Kazakhstan. © Claus Qvist Jessen |
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Kazakh cotton picker; Turkestan, Kazakhstan.
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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The dusty market at Aralsk, SW Kazakhstan. The piece of cloth covering
the face of the woman to the right is due to the dust - not the Muslim
traditions.
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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Local transport; Aralsk, SW Kazakhstan.
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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Granny and grandchild waiting to cross the railway tracks in Aralsk; SW
Kazakhstan.
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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Around Aralsk in the far south-west of Kazakhstan, Bactrian camels enjoy the
harsh desert climate. © Claus Qvist Jessen |
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is the main town of the Kazakh part of the Aral Sea - apart from the
fact that there is no water left! However, while Sur Darya River in the
south is still badly depleted, the Kazakhs take better care of their Sur
Darya, and the water level in the Northern Aral is actually rising again. © Claus Qvist Jessen |
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As around Moynaq, the desert around Aralsk is filled with rusty ships,
just waiting to be cut into steel plates again.
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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Local worker, preparing to take apart yet another rusty ship in the
desert. Actually, it's a pity, as the ships should remind future
generatios of the eco-disastes of the Soviet Union.
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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Workers cabin at the mouth of the Sur-Darya River, close to the growing(!)
part of the Kazakh Aral Sea.
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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One of the workers proudly showing his old Ural motor bike.
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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The reason for the slowly growing Northern Aral Sea: The dam, built in
between the Kazakh part and the shrinking Uzbek part in the south. The
Uzbeks and the Turkmens still use way too much water from "their" river,
the Amu Darya, and chose to blame Kazakhstan for not sharing their water.
Quite understandable, if you ask me!
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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Local fisherman at the Aral Sea Dam. Note the lead and the giant hooks -
he tried to "catch" the fish by using the hook as a spear.
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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A much better way is to use small spinners. I tried and caught lots of
these aggressive things within a couple of hours, right downstream from
the locks.
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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Very modest
photo of Niyazov. Ashgabat, Turkmenistan.
© Claus Qvist Jessen |
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| President
Saparmurat Niyazov of Turkmenistan (died dec. 2006) must hold the
position as the second-most self-loving dictator - including Stalin, Mao and Hitler.
Kim Il Sung still holds the record. All public buildings (see
below) bears his portrait, and so do all the money. This 73 meter Arch of Neutrality has a
12 meter statue of Niyazov on the top - and it's turning with the sun! © Claus Qvist
Jessen |
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| Turkmen
camel owner with a very hot and very cosy hat - even in the middle of
July! Tolguchka Bazar, Ashgabat,
Turkmenistan. © Claus
Qvist Jessen |
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| Brushes
for sale; Tolguchka Bazar north of Ashgabat,
Turkmenistan. © Claus
Qvist Jessen |
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| The
best-buy of the region is the Turkmen carpets. Unfortunately, it takes
special permits to buy one of the bigger ones. Tolguchka Bazar, Ashgabat,
Turkmenistan. © Claus
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Fruit
vendor; Tolguchka Bazar, Ashgabat,
Turkmenistan.
© Claus
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| Camel
lifting; Tolguchka Bazar, Ashgabat,
Turkmenistan. © Claus
Qvist Jessen |
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